Bringing together a range of international artists, filmmakers and
photographers, i-D
presents 25 short films on identity. Your two minutes start now...
Terry Jones
Terry Jones launched i-D in 1980 as a style magazine that adopted a radical agenda, reflecting a changing post-punk Britain and grappling with vast unemployment and war in the Falklands. The first issue featured the opinions of young people and their tastes in music and fashion; it was a mediation on the 'ordinary' that continues to underline the ethos of the magazine today. Jones is the curator of i-Dentity and the creative director of i-D.
Daydream
Terry Jones documents the celebrities seated in the front row of a fashion show in New York, merging the footage with shots of an
80-year-old surfer in Hawaii performing some old-skool stunts.
Shannon Plumb
It was as a delivery girl that Shannon Plumb first came into contact with the fashion world, when the photographer Mario Sorrenti asked if he could snap her picture while she was bringing his take-away. Since then the artist has collaborated with Sorrenti on a number of shoots for i-D magazine and Art Forum. In 1998 Plumb was given a Super-8 camera and she began to record herself acting out the characters she had witnessed on her daily commute. From street bums to coffee drinkers, Plumb studied the lives of the people in her neighbourhood and screened the results in video lounges around New York. She recently had her first solo show at Sara Meltzer Gallery and is in the process of making a film about a mad housewife who has too little time and not enough towels.
Rattles and Cherries
Shot in 2004, soon after giving birth to her first son, Rattles and Cherries is Shannon Plumb's sketch on motherhood. "It's about trying desperately to hold onto some vanity, to still be sexy and independent, and yet respond to the call of a new child in the world".
Anette Aurell
The photographer Anette Aurell is known for her intriguing fashion spreads that have featured in the pages of Vogue, Arena, Nylon and The Face. Her first shoot for i-D Magazine was in 1992 and since then she has gone on to shoot campaigns for Costume National, Cerruti 1881, Nike and the AIDS awareness campaign for the Ministry of Culture of France. In 1996 her photographs were exhibited at the Barbican Art Gallery in the urban style culture show JAM and a year later she had a retrospective at Colette in Paris. These days Aurell is based in Chiang Mai in Thailand.
Black Widow Party
Anette Aurell explores the notions of female identity in this short film that is the first in a series of works called The Red Tent. "Once upon a time, women gathered in the Red Tents and shed their menstrual blood together, in concordance with the full moon," she explains. "The Moon Blood was the mysterious magic of creation, a sacred potion, which nourished the soils for agriculture. Woman was revered for her ability to bring forth life; she was the creator, symbolized by the Yoni and the Vulva, the primordial image representing the Great Mother. The feminine expression of love, compassion, nurture, and sex was in harmony with nature, until the winds of evolution changed its course. As the tides of patriarchy grew stronger with the desertification of the Sahara, the Red Tents slowly disappeared until they became a myth, a far away memory which every women has the wisdom to unfold." This film features a dinner party in Aurell's New York apartment. Each guest seated round the table is asked to elaborate on the idea of 'woman', the results are an insightful account of the role of the modern female in today's society.
Mark Lebon
along with buddy Judy Blame, Mark has tackled traditional notions of gender, sexuality and dress, and established a newfound Buffalo aesthetic. Mark recently found and then lost his love, an upsetting and unsettled time which made him question his ideals, hone his artistic references and project his feelings through his video, photographic and sculptural art. All of which accumulated with a travelling circus of wooden genitalia morphing from one month to the other from big willies to little willies and ending, obviously, with a wooden fanny, which was ceremonially burnt.
The boys are back in town...
i-D for Cyberspace
Mana Bernardes
The artist and jewellery designer Mana Bernardes grew up in Rio de Janeiro in the 1980s. As a child her mother would rock her to sleep telling her native Indian folktales. The stories her mother told inspired her to travel to the Brazilian state of Pernambuco in 1997, where she studied the country's folklore and rituals. The trip had a lasting impact on her designs for jewellery, fabricating necklaces from recyclable materials including mirrors, magnets and bic pens. Her necklaces were recently shown at the S�o Paulo Fashion Week and a video installation was screened at the Foundation Cartier in Paris.
Connecting Through the Cord
There's plenty of navel gazing in Mana Bernardes' film. Using characters from all walks of life, she encourages them to reveal their bellies for the camera. The result is a collection of fleshy midriffs in all shapes and sizes, that Bernardes reminds us were once all connected to another human being by a navel cord. "This is a mark of identity that we all have in common." Bernardes has adapted the film specifically for the exhibition.
Hussein Chalayan
A fashion creator known for his surreal conceptions, Hussein Chalayan has become one of Britain's most respected designers over the past 10 years. First coming to prominence in 1993 with his graduate show from Central St Martins, Chalayan displayed clothes that had been buried in his back garden for a week. His later designs have been just as radical, often citing political and social events as an influence, in particular creating a collection inspired by the hijab. He has won the Designer of the Year Award twice, in 1999 and 2000 respectively and in 2005 he represented Turkey at the Venice Biennale with an installation featuring the actress Tilda Swinton.
Temporary Mediations
For the first public showing of his men's collection in 2004, the designer Hussein Chalayan made a short film about the disparate world of travel. Shot in an airport in Athens, the work focused on the notion of new frontiers between countries while also referring to the earliest migratory routes of Cyprus. For this exhibition, curator Terry Jones has selected a scene from the film in which a couple have an altercation beneath an airplane. The surreal sequence focuses on a coffee cup and the symbolism it represents to Chalayan.
Guillermo Ueno
Guillermo Ueno's photographs and films are inspired by his daily life in Buenos Aires. Editor of Hawaii, a magazine featuring collaborative projects, poetry, drawings and animation, Ueno is a scavenger of the cultural underground, compiling artworks that have featured in a number of exhibitions, including the Museum of Contemporary Art Santiago de Chile and the Hogar Collection in New York. His artwork has been published in Purple and Project Hawaii was featured in i-D in 2003.
Burzaco
This film by Guillermo Ueno seeks to wrestle with the artist's sense of belonging: "identity is not an easy subject for me, my family emigrated from Japan 70 years ago, I was born in Argentina and I speak Spanish but I have always thought about Japan. I feel Japanese but when I went to live in Nagoya and Tokyo for a year and a half, they called me a 'gaijin' (a foreigner). I spent part of my life looking for an identity, some tradition, and now I realise that it is in my garden, in my friends, in my wife. I realised that Japan was not my place, and so this film is about my garden and the lights, the rain, the dust, my wife Lola and my friends." This poetic film attempts to capture Ueno's world "a kind of video for music and unknown places".
Ali Mahdavi
Born in Tehran in 1974, but now living in Paris, Ali Mahdavi is a filmmaker and designer of costumes that are extravagant affairs inspired by French Catholicism and Mahdavi's Persian heritage. From silver cloaks to opulent purple robes stitched in gold, these strange outfits tread a fine line between high church and camp. After completing his studies in Paris at L'Ecole Nationale des Arts Appliqu�s Duperr�, Mahdavi worked for the French fashion designer Thierry Mugler. In 2003, Mahdavi had his first solo exhibition at Scout Gallery in Hoxton Square, East London.
Tous Les Autres S'Appellent Ali
Ali Madhavi has Alopecia Universalis, a disease that deprives him of hair and his film focuses on those who are similarly afflicted. "I have been compared to all the bald people on earth..yet all I need is a wig for all resemblance to evaporate. No longer having hair violently changes our relationship with others, and the rules of seduction, desire, and one's love-life are deeply disturbed, especially if the illness manifests itself before adulthood. Having lived through the same pain, shame and thus the same arrogance, I was convinced that we would all have the same feelings. Yet I was forced to notice while working on this project that even if, like a faltering army of clones or extra-terrestrials, we belong to the same race, deep down we are all just as different from each other as if we had hair and our lamented eyelashes and eyebrows."
Donald Christie
The photographer Donald Christie swapped the chill of the north for a squat in London after completing a degree in Fine Art at Newcastle Polytechnic. He spent the 1990s working as a commercial photographer before moving into fashion and portraiture, including much work for i-D. Recently Christie travelled to East Jerusalem where he embarked on a project focusing on the notion of identity and location, since then he has been making work that explores this idea in greater depth and is at present collaborating with musicians and sound artists Icarus, Kim Hiorthoy, Massive Attack and Janek Scheaffer on a number of projects.
St John Ophthalmic Hospital
The portraits are part of a project undertaken by Donald Christie whilst he was working in the St John Eye Hospital in East Jerusalem. "The hospital opened in 1992 as a satellite clinic to provide the local population with better access to ophthalmic services. The clinic sees over 1000 patients every month and as nearly half the population is under 14 years of age, children make up a significant proportion of the caseload." Christie invited the nursing staff to chose 120 patients to be photographed during morning surgery, revealing a cross section of society from Bedouin to city dwellers to refugees.
Marcus Tomlinson
The London-based photographer Marcus Tomlinson has been a fixture on the fashion scene for the past 14 years, shooting editorials for i-D, Arena, The Face and Vogue. In May 2001 after shooting a story for i-D, Tomlinson was approached by Issey Miyake and invited to make a film for his A-POC range, which was then shown at the Vitra Design Museum in Berlin. Since then, Tomlinson has collaborated with a number of designers, including Hussein Chalayan, Philip Treacy and Koji Tatsuno, as well as working with the musicians Jamiroquai, Soul 2 Soul and Des'ree.
Breath
Sharin Foo, the bass player in the Nordic post-punk band The Raveonettes, features in Marcus Tomlinson's film made especially for the exhibition and in collaboration with the sculptor Lone Sigurdsson. "This film explores the changes of identity by progressive alterations made to the garments that take over the body shape". Foo's figure is transformed into a surreal landscape through the application of different materials.
Xu Zhen
There is a dramatic intensity to the short films of Chinese born artist Xu Zhen, who creates nightmarish scenarios through the use of physical and emotional torture. Born in Shanghai in 1977, Zhen studied at the Shanghai School of Arts and Crafts before founding an artist-run collective. His films have been featured at the Venice Biennale in 2001 and recently at the Mori Art Centre in Tokyo. His creepiest film to date is Rainbow, a four-minute piece in which the back of a torso gradually changes colour from pale pink to red as an invisible hand beats the skin raw.
Road Show
Filmed in 2002, Road Show is a three-part performance. One sequence will be shown at the exhibition featuring Xu Zhen on stage impersonating a woman having an orgasm, after which he invites the audience to join in with him. The result is a humorous and sexually charged work that acts as a metaphor for Xu Zhen's experiences of being a successful artist in China and the relationship he has with his
Olafur Eliasson
It was a vast sun filling the Turbine Hall at Tate Modern in an amber mist that first brought the Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson to the attention of the British public, back in 2003. Known for his witty, beautiful and ecologically questioning mediations on our environment, Eliasson has in the past dyed a river pink, designed a waterfall that flowed upwards and constructed a rain shower inside a gallery. Born in Copenhagen but now living in Iceland, Eliasson is an internationally renowned artist and has just installed a vast light installation in the Malm� Konsthall in Sweden.
Untitled
Olafur Eliasson continues his study of colour with this elegantly simple film that records the spectrum as it slowly transmutes between gradations of shade. Simple and utterly beguiling, it saturates the screen in colour.
Tyrone Lebon
Tyrone Lebon shot his first film at 18 on the subject of a young Indonesian surfer Dede Suryana. Since then he has contributed photographs to i-D magazine and made films for the fashion designer Vivienne Westwood. Last year Lebon worked as a photographic assistant for the New York photographer Mario Sorrenti, and after completing a degree in Social Anthropology at Edinburgh University this summer, has embarked on a career in photography and film.
Dede Suryana Indonesian Surfer
This film looks at clothing sponsorship and its effects on the identity of the talented young Indonesian surfer Dede Suryana. It highlights the conflicting roles that sponsorship plays; both restricting Dede's identity through controlled branding and simultaneously enabling him to fulfill his surfing ambitions through financial support.
Lara Baladi
Born in Beirut in 1969, Lara Baladi grew up in Lebanon but moved to Cairo after studying for a degree in International Business in London. Her artworks are an eclectic mix of Islamic motifs, Barbie kitsch and pop culture that she constructs into photographic collages, films and performances that allude to daily life. She recently featured in the Hayward Gallery's grand scale exhibition Africa Remix and has recently had a solo show at the Nikolaj Contemporary Art Centre in Denmark and will be exhibiting her films at the Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris throughout November.
Shish Kebab
A work that seeks to redress the neo-Orientalist vision of the Arab world, Lara Baladi's video is based on a song from a 1930s film called Ismael Yassin in the Mental Hospital that Baladi found playing in a music box in Cairo. Using Japanese Manga cartoons, Arabic and Western music, Baladi offers the viewer a cross-cultural exchange of dynamic imagery. Some of the melodies composed specifically for the film are played with the oud, the musical instruments that are the foundation of Arabic classical music which also have their roots in Western culture. "Shish Kebab is the expression of a nostalgic desire for an imagined world, an ambulant television born of my nomadic experiences, a sense of belonging, but only fleetingly, to a place, a feeling known to emigrants from any culture." Shish Kebab was shown earlier this year at the Kunsthalle in Vienna.
Harmony Korine
Harmony Korine first shot to attention in 1995 as the teenage scripter of Kids, Larry Clarke's seminal study of amoral youth in NYC. Korine's directorial debut Gummo (1997) established his unique vision, which aimed for nothing less than to redefine cinema itself. Infused with the sensibility of European arthouse directors such as Werner Herzog (who would act in his next feature), Gummo presented small town Americana as a disturbing hinterland of weirdness. His highly acclaimed follow-up, Julian Donkeyboy (1999), a study of schizophrenia and dysfunctional family life, was made according to the rules of the Dogme 95 manifesto of Danish directors Lars Von Trier and Thomas Vinterberg. He is currently finishing his third feature Mister Lonely.
No More Workhorse Blues
Harmony Korine first collaborated with alt country singer/musician Will Oldham under his Bonnie Prince Billy moniker, on the album Ease Down The Road in 2001. His music promo for the song No More Workhorse Blues from the 2005 album Greatest Palace Music is every bit as strange and poetic a piece of mischief as you would expect from the director of Gummo. Korine's art piece-come-promo features characters trapped within a tiny movement, played on repeat, jackhammer style. Accompanying Oldham's mournful strains is a series of jarringly disjointed imagery and elliptical ideas - a couple playing squash, a woman 'blacked up' minstrel-style in a white wig and wedding gown giving head to an ice lolly, a puppy wagging its tail.
Jason Evans
The highly influential photographer Jason Evans first came to prominence in the early 1990s when he snapped young black men dressed as pseudo country gents and dandies against a backdrop of mundane suburban housing for i-D Magazine. The photographs challenged official notions of class, race and national identity. Since then, Evans continues to use fashion as a cover for exploring the political and social environment. His photographs have been exhibited at Tate Modern and The V&A and he has collaborated with Radiohead and Four Tet.
Mushroom Festival in Hell
Jason Evans films the busy street outside his bedroom window in New York City over the course of a day, "My lo-fi film is the same thing over and over again, but different each time. That's what I thought about identity." The footage is cut so that only the tops of the city's familiar yellow taxis drive past Evans' window, allowing the viewer only a very limited vision of this frenetic metropolis.
agn�s b
The designer agn�s b has been an innovative and radical force in the world of fashion since she first made her work-a-day clothes in the 1970s. Born in Versailles in 1941 into a bourgeois family, she began working for French Elle at the age of 19 before embarking on her own clothing range. In 1975 she opened her first store in an old butchers in Les Halles and since then she has expanded across the globe. Her early fascination with the arts also inspired her to start the Galerie du Jour, which features the work of artists, photographers, graffiti artists and filmmakers, including Martin Parr, Richard Billingham, Harmony Korine and Jonathan Caouette.
Je vais t'aimer
agn�s b is never without her camera, and for the past 7 years she has recorded the world around her. "To me it is a great witness of striking, moving things that I see and moreover make sense to me". Her short film features a tramp singing the popular song Je vais t'aimer on the banks of the river Seine while a bride prepares for her wedding.
Su-Mei Tse
Su-Mei Tse's understated films, paintings and sound installations have been compared to haiku poetry for their elegant and spartan imagery. From her film of road sweepers standing in a vast line across the horizon to the image of a young woman playing a cello amid an alpine landscape, Tse finds the sublime in the poetic and the prosaic. In 2003 she represented Luxembourg at the Venice Biennale and won the Golden Lion award. Since then she has shown in London, Paris and New York.
The Desert Sweepers
This strange and hallucinatory film by Su-Mei Tse depicts a collection of street sweepers brushing the desert sand into piles with plastic brooms. Occasionally the workers stop to take a break and look out over the eternal horizon before continuing with their work, yet the piles of sand never get bigger and their actions never tire, leaving the viewer the only witness to the futility of their task.
Terry Richardson
A photographer whose stellar list of celebrity posers includes the likes of Leonardo DiCaprio, Daniel Day Lewis and Chloe Sevigny, Terry Richardson is infamous for having an uncanny ability to reveal the raw emotion of his sitters. Born in New York City but raised in Los Angeles, Richardson began his photographic career while a student at Hollywood High School. Since his early days recording the antics of his punk band, he has gone on to shoot campaigns for Gucci, Miu Miu and APC. Recently Richardson has turned his attention to film, creating videos for Primal Scream and Death in Vegas and producing a feature film Son of a Bitch, a stark portrayal of a father-son struggle with love and hate.
Untitled
Terry Richardson's video, shot for the critically-acclaimed rock band Queens of the Stone Age, depicts Richardson's alter ego and assistant Keiji dancing naked. The moves he performs are those he imagines the band might make in front of a mirror.
Cristian Solimeno and Jesse Lawrence
Solimeno and Lawrence met at secondary school and after leaving formed a theatre company before turning their attention to film. Solimeno forged a career in acting and Lawrence has made five short films. Their work explores the notion of identity and how one unique character trait can alienate a person in modern day Britain.
Don't Hate Me Because. I'm a Child Prodigy
Solimeno and Lawrence's film is an intimate portrait of a young violinist called Nazrin, who is currently studying at the Royal Academy of Music. Nazrin first picked up a violin at the age of three and was playing concerts at six. Now 16, she is starting to think about her future and also learning to live independently. In this film, the young musician reveals her dreams as she prepares for a concert.
Warren du Preez and Nick Thornton Jones
Fashion image-makers Warren du Preez and Nick Thornton Jones construct stunning dreamscapes that alternate between reality and fantasy. From blurred shafts of intense colour to black and white portraits of models, the graphic design duo construct idiosyncratic artworks that have been featured in campaigns for Levi's, Cartier and Shiseido. Based in a studio near Brick Lane in East London, the duo have been collaborating since 1998 and recently illustrated Suzanne Lee's Definitive Guide to Fashion of the Future published by Thames and Hudson.
Mutation
An abstract vision of future fashion by Warren du Preez and Nick Thornton, from growing garments to shifting materials, the duo present a world of mutating clothing created through electro textiles and biotechnology. "Suzanne Lee's collaboration was the driving inspiration behind the film that explores a fashion landscape that offers viewers a tour of the future. It challenges how the fashion image is perceived and expressed by using 3 dimensional space and abstraction."
Wing Shya
Hong-Kong based photographer Wing Shya is best known in this country for his work with the legendary director Wong Kar Wai on films such as In the Mood for Love. After studying graphic design in Canada and working for Pentagram in New York, Wing Shya set up the award-winning design studio Shya-la-la that produces raw and edgy designs for fashion magazines. Together with his film projects and music videos for artists such as Karen Mok and Vanessa Mae, Shya's work has also been featured in a number of international exhibitions.
Stroke
The Chinese alphabet is thought to be one of the oldest and most complex written forms. With over 30,000 characters, they are often a reflection of the objects they describe. According to the history of Chinese culture, calligraphy is considered one of the most important expressions of the individual spirit. This short film by Wing Shya reveals the emotional freedom enjoyed through the art of calligraphy.
Cristian Solimeno and Jesse Lawrence
Solimeno and Lawrence met at secondary school and after leaving formed a theatre company before turning their attention to film. Solimeno forged a career in acting and Lawrence has made five short films. Their work explores the notion of identity and how one unique character trait can alienate a person in modern day Britain.
Don't Hate Me Because. I'm a Big Man
Child psychologist and basketball player John is 6ft 9ins tall, a height that causes much amusement to passersby. In this short film he discusses how his size can be a disability and how he overcomes everyday comments.
Yasumasa Morimura
From European masters to Hollywood starlets, Yasumasa Morimura adopts a number of different personas in his photographs, dressing up as Marilyn Monroe, Manet's Olympia and even the Siamese twins in 'Seven Brides'. It's a surreally kitsch picture he creates, one that confuses Western and Eastern culture and disrupts our vision of history. Born in Osaka in 1951, this Japanese artist describes himself as an entertainer, " and want to make art that is fun."
Me Holding a Gun: For Andy Warhol
1998, video work, 3 mins (silent).
Yasumasa Morimura is standing against a blank background, in his hand is a gun, and he has adopted the dress and stance of Elvis Presley in the picture made infamous by Andy Warhol. Like Warhol, Morimura repeats the image, multiplying and colouring it and designing a stage set of silver foil balls, a reference to Warhol's New York studio, The Factory.
Kuang-Yu Tsui
The Taiwan-based artist Kuang-Yu Tsui is known for his surreal short films, in which he performs simple acts of futility and humour for the camera in order to explore the body's relationship to its surroundings. Educated at the National Institute of Arts in Taipei, Kuang-Yu began his artistic career in the late 1990s, a time of great economic prosperity in Taiwan. As a result Kuang-Yu Tsui chooses to focus on global issues rather than the local political machinations that were the defining concern of an earlier generation of Taiwanese artists.
You So Crazy: Video Works, 1995-2005
From hitting golf balls at glass buildings to walking into lamposts to waving a chequered flag at passing traffic, Kuang-Yu Tsui's witty actions, designed to highlight the mundane and ordinary aspects of daily life, are delightful moments of simple absurdity.